Brixton Bovril to Bovril Castle

In central Brixton, near the library and facing the Town Hall, there is a huge ghostsign advertising Bovril*, a beef extract product that is still available today. 

Bovril was created by John Lawston Johnson in 1897 – its popularity and success enabled him move into and adapt a house that can be found a few stops along the railway line from Brixton, at Kingswood House, Sydenham Hill. Indeed the house is better known as Bovril Castle and is today home to an Kingswood Arts centre. I went there recently as part of an organised guided tour and found it to be an absolute delight...

Opposite Brixton station entrance in Atlantic Road there's a different type of ghostsign showing that this used to be a branch of Stone (television and radio). It's been looking like this for over 15 years and I'm always surprised that no one has yet simply wiped away the dirt:

Up to the platform. Brixton station is lovely. I love the fancy wooden canopies and the metalwork:

Sydenham Hill station is cute but very strange. From the lovely footbridge there's an evocative view into tho tunnel heading southward:

On the southbound platform there's a tiled artwork created by young people that appears to be missing some elements. On exiting the station, there's no proper street – instead you make your way up this stepped ramped path that leads into a post-WW2 housing estate. I hear that the station had originally been built merely to serve Kingswood House, there being nothing else in the immediate vicinity. 

The shops in Seeley Drive were all closed or empty bar one. It all seemed very quiet and spooky. Where were the locals?

I spotted some creative graffiti on what I assume used to be a fountain in the grounds of the Kingswood House. I was early for the tour so I walked around the house and looked back at it from near the benches by the kids' playground. It's easy to see why it's called a castle. 

Ooh... the guide opened the doors so I headed over to the house and spotted an intriguing maker's plaque within a rusty crackled panel that I assume allows access to the basement. The plaque is for John Tann of 11 Newgate, London. 

The name rang a bell and later I recalled I'd seen the same name on a wall in Hackney advertising a family business that made security products, specifically safes and vaults. Indeed the Tanns are credited as making the very first safe – more here which makes for fascinating reading if you have an hour or so!

And so into Kingswood House. The room our tour started in still retains some marvellous old plasterwork on the ceiling, said to be Tudor era, though I am not sure why depictions of Alexander and Hector Troy are repeated across the space. Perhaps they simply denote power and leadership?

The fireplace surround is also impressive, both the wood and the plasterwork within. In fact the whole building is littered with architectural details of the most marvellous kind, the guys at Kingswood Arts having spent ages painstakingly restoring the building after years of neglect in the latter part of the twentieth century. This includes a lovely marble floor in the conservatory (which I completely forgot to photograph) that was covered in carpet which had been glued directly onto the marble. Crazy!  

Here follows some more pics which show the parquet floors, panelled walls, a sun damaged tapestry and a wonderful galleried room.   

Do pop in and have a look. Kingswood Arts centre is a crowdfunded facility for arts of various kinds and is also available for hire for events. There's also a good cafe there too.

*There also a few lines on there advertising Butlin's holidays, but people rarely notice that!

Hidden London tours of Kingsway Tram Tunnel

Two weeks ago I finally visited the disused tram tunnel underneath Holborn Kingsway, a subterranean passage that was built for public transport just below street level, linking North and South London via Bloomsbury and The Embankment. 

We met our guides at the top of the one in ten access slope at the junction of Southampton Row and Theobald's Road here. Note the impressive railings and lamp standards that protect the entrance. I'm simply going to show you some of my photos. 

The base of the central lamp directly above the tunnel entrance bears the cartouche LCC, London County Council 

Looking down at the rails. In some places you can see clear to the void below and we were advised not to let anything drop down there, because they wouldn't be able to get it back. Some old posters which I think were real as there are also hints of posters and signage installed more recently being as this tunnel has often been used as filming location.

My two photos show the steps leading up to the exit that was almost opposite Holborn tube station. The archive image is the other exit near Bush House and shows that in order to get to the tram platforms you had to play with the traffic at ground level

Ooh look, more wood blocks! And a lovely pattern of rails, and a modern Fire Exit sign, though I'm sure not quite as attractive as the ones of 100 years ago would have been. 

The large panels within the pic on the left are metal and these would have been used for advertising posters. They are still in amazingly good condition. I like abstract patterns made by colourful wires on sooty walls. 

There might be trams in Croydon, and I am sure that I heard about a decade ago, a proposal for trams to be reintroduced to Oxford Street etc, but, for many reasons, there are no plans to bring them back to this old subway. Today, most of this underground space is used by Camden Council to store redundant street furniture.

Rad blocks, barriers, lamp standards, and all sorts being stored here. 

I spotted some attractively-arranged storage in some of the recesses along the access slope. They look like little art installations. Surely this isn't an accident?! I think the curators probably use those two chairs and were off having a tea break when we were there!  

The southern section under Aldwych is still a functioning underpass, used by small vehicles rather than public transport, and headed northwards only. Access is from Lancaster Place at the northern end of Waterloo Bridge. Many years ago, when I had my little Fiat Panda, I used to love whizzing through there like I was in the Monaco Grand Prix, down the slope, swing to the right, swing to the left, emerging into Kingsway triumphant just before Portugal Street. And then sitting in traffic (of which I was part!). 

Pat and Kat were our guides on the day and their enthusiasm shone through. It's a really good tour, albeit a bit expensive, but you're only going to do it once. Find out lots more by experiencing the tour yourself through London Transport Museum's website here, where you'll also find archive images and more information.

Twinking Trees, Turkey and Traditions – A Covent Garden Christmas Tour

Ding dong merrily – mince pies at the ready – time for a bit of self promotion.

I have turned my Covent Garden Christmas lights tour into a virtual experience – Find it here.

More dates to be added through to 6th January. See the schedule here.

I'm also more than happy to lead the tour on foot – please do get in touch.

Christmas is coming...

This Sunday 1st Dec, Noon–5.30pm, find me up at my stall on Navigator Square as part of Islington Council's Archway Christmas Lights Switch-on – this is always a lively event – there'll be music, entertainment and all sorts! I expect the Islington Mayor will make an appearance (though I don't expect to see Jezza this time!)
I will be selling my cards, prints and guided walks at reduced prices (vouchers can be applied to walks at a later date) and festive earrings also available.
Cards and prints are available through my Etsy shop – free UK P+P.

Also available on the Christmas sparkly theme – I have devised a walking tour in central London – it goes through Covent Garden and Leicester Square ending in Trafalgar Square. Wander along twinkly streets and hear the reasons behind our Christmas customs and traditions. Many dates available.
Or view my quick-to-view tour date schedule here

Ding dong merrily!

The Ladykillers – Kings Cross film locations guided walk

KX 2009 – this is all one image, not a montage!

Wandering around Kings Cross a few months ago I had a brainwave.
I had just finished leading my ghostsigns tour there and I was thinking how the junction of Euston, Pentonville and Grays Inn Roads has evolved over the past 20 years, especially in front of KX station since the removal of extraneous buildings and the 1970s canopy over the forecourt. Though it's worth pointing out that by then end of the 19th century the forecourt was already littered with a patchwork of various structures; a mix of  entrances and exits, offices, kiosks and shops etc.
Viewing the station today from the corner of Argyle Street it looks just as messy if not worse – The Great Northern Northern Hotel is now partially obliterated by huge circular vents for the Underground, though there is lots of open space and seating on the eastern/YorkWay side around Henry Moore's sculpture.
Pondering all this as I wandered up towards the canal I recalled one of my favourite films The Ladykillers (the 1955 Alec Guinness original, not that silly 2004 remake), and... "PING!" I had the lightbulb moment... I should devise a guided walking tour linking the locations used in The Ladykillers whilst highlighting how the area has changed.

It's all set up and ready to go.
Do join me. First tour 13th June at 2.30pm. More dates throughout the summer – please see my walks listings here  

I can see your house from here! Caledonian clocktower open through the summer for guide-led tours

The cafe is open, the visitor centre is complete, the information panels and plaques are in place and you can now climb 178 steps to the top of the marvellous clock tower that sits in the middle of Caledonian Park.
See the clock mechanism, learn about the history of the area and enjoy the fabulous views in all directions.
This clock tower used to be the centre of a Victorian meat market that covered a much larger area than we see today. The market was built to take the pressure off Smithfield which had become way too busy, dirty and noisy. A huge flea market later evolved on the same site. Today it's hard to imagine such hustle and bustle here.
I am one of the Islington guides who lead the tours. Don't worry – we don't climb the stairs in one hit – we go up each flight one person at a time and convene for a talk on each level, and the bells won't start ringing when you are up there!
Free tours of the clock tower (and the park) on Saturdays throughout the summer. 
Please note that places are strictly limited to 12 people on each tower tour and restrictions apply as regards age, fitness, clothing etc so please be sure to read all the terms and conditions. 

Drunken Barnaby's Journal by Richard Brathwait

Last Saturday I spent a very pleasant afternoon leading short tours around N19 as part of Archway With Words 2018.
Whilst talking about The Mother Redcap public house on the 2.30pm tour I noticed that Matt, one of my group, was especially engaged in the information. When the tour finished he asked if I had read Drunken Barnaby's Four Journeys by Richard Brathwait, first published in 1638, which includes an account of a visit to that tavern by the titular character. I said I had read excerpts online but, no, I didn't have the actual book.
He said he had two copies and would I like one of them? Er, well, yes please.
So he nipped home and came back with two books and refused to take anything for them, saying they were a present and he wanted nothing more because he'd enjoyed the tour.

As you can see by the [dodgy] snaps above, he has given me a lovely 1805 book that's in the original Latin and translated into English. It also contains some fabulous etchings. I am also intrigued by an inscription on the inside front cover that shows that William Smith bought this book at a sale in 1894.
The other book Matt gave me is about the author, Richard Brathwait, The First Lakeland Poet. As you can see, he's very Drake/Raleigh in appearance.
What a delight all round!
Matt didn't leave me his contact details so can't send him a big personal thank you.
I really hope he sees this or he joins another of my walks in the future.

Angel Canal Festival 2018 – Sunday September 2nd

Wow! How can it be almost September already?
Angel Canal Festival is upon us again.
This colourful one-day event happens on and around City Road Lock and Basin with lots to see and do. Sunday September 2nd, 11am–5pm.

Find these lovely mosaics adjacent to City Rd Lock. They were created by the children at Hanover Primary School working with Carina Wyatt and Cathy Ludlow in partnership with Cally Arts and Islington local2global project. They celebrate the journey of people and goods into Islington and the way we use the canal today.
Top: The Working Canal and The Layered City. Bottom: Tools and Trades and The Living Canal. there are also some benches in the shape of fish.

Find me at my stall (see right) on Danbury Street bridge above the canal selling cards and prints, made from my photographs of local places and signs, and clay pipe jewellery, all as seen in the photo, right.
Discounts for my walking tours will also be on offer – approx 10% off – vouchers can be allocated at a later date – lots of walks to choose from – see here.
What's not to like?!!
See here for more info.

To find out more about Regents Canal, why not come on guided tour on a narrowboat – see my previous post.