Showing posts with label Chelsea. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chelsea. Show all posts

8 February 2026

Chelsea distractions - welcome to my world

Here is a glimpse into my head which might help to explain why I am often asking for multiple parallel universes. One to walk and wander, one to write and research, one to read all the books and watch all the old movies, one to sit and just be. 

I take a lot of photos as I wander London's streets and you only get to see a teeny tiny selection of them. I wander and wonder. When I wander I discover things that intrigue me. I wonder what/why. I take a few snaps to remind me to look into it later. I turn a corner and find something else of interest. I take more photos. I turn a third corner and notice some unusual railings or coal hole covers with designs I haven't seen before, or an unusually impressive building, or a faded sign or a bizarre sculpture... and my phone becomes filled with 100s of 'ideas' that hardly ever bubble to the surface because there aren't enough hours in the day, days in the week etc. 

The photos take a matter of seconds to snap but the re-naming, filing, tagging takes ages. Add to that, the time taken doing research to find out more about what I have just seen or discovered, such that one quick photograph can end up taking me down a vortex and what I thought would be 5-minutes of goggling becomes a 2-day investigation. It's often the case that my most recent discoveries take precedent over the half-completed stuff which then gets swamped in one of my ever-expanding 'To Do' folders. 

Welcome to my world

To give an example of how this happens, this whole blog post/article/whatever you want to call it has taken me over 5hrs to pull together, and it doesn't even contain any decent research, just observations and musings, and a couple of links. Read on...

Last Friday 6th Feb I attended a talk at The Army Museum. I travelled there by tube to Sloane Square and managed to keep my phone in my pocket until I reached the hexagonal acanthus leafed post box near Bram Stoker's blue plaque on Leonard's Terrace. I took this quick snap with the intention to check if I'd already added a red dot on my wall map at home.   


At the museum I used the facilities, and took a pic of the saluting figures on the signs so as to add them to the interesting toilet signs I've spotted that might one day appear as a collections (a subfolder in To Do). Despite a voice in my head saying telling me to go home and get things done, that I could be back by 2pm and have three good hours at my desk, I let myself wander about the exhibits. I love the quality of uniforms and all the hand stitching on the older pieces. I find it amazing how they spent so much time and effort making such lovely items of clothing for people to die in. An hour flew by. My tummy rumbled. I went to the nearby Tesco and got a 3-part snack deal.

Wandering along Smith Street munching on my crisps, I noticed that two of the coal hole covers bore addresses in nearby Kings Road. I took snaps just I case I hadn't already added these to my A-Z database of ironmongers.

On the other side of the road, I glanced across at 17-18 Smith Street and wondered why/how this was rebuilt taller than everything else in the terrace. It looks to be residential. Note that this is a portrait shaped photo here to get the whole thing in. I prefer to take square shape. 


Just before King's Road there is a gated court yard called Court Yard. Cool huh. 
Opposite is a blue plaque to PL Travers, the lady that have us Mary Poppins. It says she lived here until 1962 and I wondered if she ever associated with Agatha Christie who lived a stone's throw away during the same era.


On the other side of King's Road a plaque for Mary Quant, the pic taken from the below the cow's head that protrudes form the corner of what was once Wright's Dairy when this was a genteel Victorian suburb.


From the same viewpoint, there's the old Markham Arms with its curved street level windows and, on the southern side, the bizarre bit of bonkers Egyptianesque PoMo that sits above Holland & Barratt


On the diagonally opposite corner to Wright's there is a 1960s building containing a shop at street level that offers bland beige and grey clothing. Many other shops along Kings Rd today also sell similar stuff – it's a far cry from the colourful world of Mary Quant. 

I stood there for a while drinking in the patchwork of architecture all around me and, raher than head towards the station, I crossed over to check on the sculpture at the corner to see if anyone has seen fit to add any kind of information plaque since I last wrote about it back in 2015. 


Nope. Nada. Nothing. FYI, as per the info in that link above the pics, This is 'Bronze man and Eagle' by Richard Bentley Claughton for Barclays Bank, unveiled in April 1966.

I wandered past the bronze man and around Markham Square, a cul-de-sac. At the far left corner I noticed a stump of churchiness, possibly a gate post. Hmmm. The houses must abut or replace a churchyard, hence a road to nowhere. However, the houses at the end could have been built at a later date in the same style. More below.


I found nothing similar in the other corner, so I look a pic of the entrance to the private gardens and headed back to Kings Road. Paul's patisserie at the corner of of Bywater Street retains some lovely brass ventilation grilles at low level. I wondered what type of shop this was originally. 


I let myself be tempted around exterior of the shop into what is yet another cul-de-sac. 


Pretty pastel coloured houses on three sides. The two at the end are surely as old as the rest of the street and I guess that this development must have also backed onto the churchyard, but today there's a huge C20th construction looming over their back gardens.
Turning back towards King's Rd I was amazed to discover an Art Deco style property in the middle of the west terrace. 


What on earth is going on here?! Perhaps this was originally a gap between the houses that was later infilled? However, the satellite view does not appear to back up that theory. But why employ such a modern style so different to the rest of the houses here? Is it just the façade or the whole building? Whilst it's a delight to me now, many of the residents in this street must surely have been furious at the time of construction.
Back to King's Rd. Almost opposite, on the south side, is Wellington Square, another cul-de-sac: 
 

Belts and braces. Metal bollards and stone bollards too. I headed up the right side and came back down the left side and found a few coal holes covers of interest.

I am often confused and bemused why circles contain seven segments. I mean, why make it so difficult when 360 is easily divisible by every other number 2-12 excluding seven. Eh? (I did say welcome to my world!)

There are a few more King’s Road ironmongers plates along here, set within lovely York stone and looking good in the rain. I also found a design I have never seen before where rings of ellipses form a nice concentric pattern.



Now where? Should I head to the station and home or investigate the streets beyond Markham Square and Bywater Street to check out the church hunch? A no brainer! 
I headed down cute little Tryon Street and turned left into Elstan Place. Passing Ranelagh House (wowzer – a development that needs a separate investigation) and the 1950's elegance of Thackery House and a cottage named after one of history's most oft-mentioned characters.


Only last week, a friend and I were debating who has more places named after them, Ms Gwynne or Mr Dickens? Many of the connections are spurious or vague.
Between some cottages, very similar in design to those in Markham Square and Bywater Street, there's the remains of a gateway to the church. 


Aha!  OK, so I've googled... here's a pic that shows that the church's entrance was at the end of Markham Square, demolished in 1953. 

At Markham Street there is a tall bollard that surely is an original upcycled cannon but there is so much paint on it that the information panel is impossible to read.


Nearby, on the western end of the triangle, another cannon-shaped bollard is dated 1820


I took a quick snap of the oil jars on the exterior of the dry cleaners at the corner of Godfrey Street and, managing to resist the temptation to wander around the large blocks that comprise Sutton Dwellings, I instead headed up Whitehead's Grove, passing one of the entrances to The Gateways a gorgeous 1934 red brick development that has that out of town vibe.  


As I approached the larger 1930s buildings along Sloane Avenue it occurred to me that years ago I had promised to offer an Art Deco Chelsea walking tour of this area. Whoops! I'd started the idea but had realised the route needed more R&D. I will return to this. I will. I will. I will...!


Here's young Nell again – see her above the entrance, here paired with Sloane Avenue Mansions.
Into Draycott Avenue, passing a Guinness social housing building and well-to do mansions block, and into the little streets that connect Draycott St to King's Rd.
 

A house in Coulson Street is painted a shocking pink. Yes, quite shocking. As Loyd Grossman would have said, who lives in a house like this?
And so to Sloane Square – note Nell Gwynne on the fountain. A couple of snaps of the old public conveniences to update another sub-folder in the To Dos. I wonder if there are plans to turn this subterranean space into anything as per  other repurposed sites (a blog post collection on lost and converted loos is still in the making). A mini paddling pool on the roof.


Then Sloane Square station to Finsbury Park, exiting onto Goodwin Street, wondering what will become of the Post Office building and surrounding site that has been saved from demolition but has sat empty for a long time.


People are often heard saying "you should get out more" LOL! 
Back in 2020 when most people were 'trapped' and bored' I was outdoors in my element, wandering the empty streets and investigating alleyways, taking thousands more photos when, perhaps I could have been using the time to chip away at an already huge backlog. Instead, I added to the problem! 
Until mind-melding becomes a thing such that we can think a thought into our hand-held devices and it will research and write all up for us, I'm going to be playing catch-up for a long time yet!

How long did writing this take? 
A couple of hours of wandering about, following my nose, taking photos, making notes, then an hour of picture editing the ones I wanted to use here. Note that these are only approx 40% of the total pics I took on this particular day, a day when I was actually being frugal with the idea to write this thing as a stream of succinct consciousness (well, that didn't happen!). 
Other pics taken on the same day will, hopefully, rise to the top at some point as separate blog posts in their own right. 

I started writing at 10.05am. It never ceases to amaze me how long these things take me to produce and, as mentioned above, I have not on this occasion done any proper research into the things mentioned, except to refer to an A-Z at my left elbow, a bit of google streetviewing, and to decipher the scribbled notes I made on the day. 
I actually set myself a deadline for this – when I sat down I said spend two hours max on it. At 1.29pm I decided I was finished and gave the whole thing a read-through and made some text edits. It is now 2.06pm and I am still sat here. Aaargh! I will stop now. I'm done. I'm hungry. I need to get out and about before the sun goes down!

I'm not sure how I can work any faster. Special mention to two people who never cease to amaze me – David who produces A London Inheritance and M@ Londonist – they each compile weekly missives packed to the gills with facts. These men, I conclude, simply do not sleep or they have access to the parallel universes that I so dearly require. 

6 June 2025

A bizarre bootscraper installation near World's End, Chelsea

Last January, whilst cutting through from Kings Rd to Fulham Rd, I stopped in my tracks when I spotted a boot scraper protruding out of a gatepost mid-way along the street. I pointed it out to my friends, who were equally bemused, and took these four snaps:

How stupid! 

Why? Because the large flat dish section at the back of the hole is actually a base plate that ought to be set flat under the ground and filled with cement, such that the H-shape, bridge-style, boot-scraper element is perpendicular and easily accessible for the removal mud and gunk from one's riding boots or wellies before entering the property. Instead, here we have a hole crudely bashed out of a gatepost and the scraper tipped over at +90 degrees!  See here for the different designs. 

I've spotted some abused and broken examples but never before have I seen anything like this one in Chelsea.

H-bar types like this one are usually sited beside a path or either side of a door/portico. The ones that are set within walls often resemble mini-fireplaces and can mostly be found on terraced houses that are flush to the public pavement so as not to cause a hazard. 

I was so busy chatting with my friends that day that I forgot to take any photos of the street and the house itself. A few weeks later I tried to find it on Google Streeview but I couldn't see it because the middle section of the road wasn't available. Ooh that's frustrating! 

Last week I was in the World's End area of Chelsea last week so I nipped round the corner to take more pics. 

Ah... it turns out I was googling in the wrong street – I had been convinced that we had walked along Gunter Grove, but I now realise it was outside No.33 Edith Grove:

It turns out this daft yet amusing addition is easily visible on Google Streetview here which shows us that it was installed sometime after October 2022. It's not the only silly thing in the street – the Banksy elephants are practically opposite:

Oooh, how did THAT happen with no-one seeing them do it or having in any prior knowledge?! Hmm. ditto that stupid tree mess that 'appeared' on a wall near here, in Hornsey Rd last year. 

It's sad to see what a sorry state The World's End pub is in these days. I went there often in the 1980s and 90s and loved the interior and the mix of people. A few years ago I wandered in with a friend hoping for a pint in a proper old boozer but we found they had no ale on tap so we didn't stop. Had we seen the signs outside that boasted "three floors of food, drinks and fun" we'd have swerved it.  That particular funhouse business has since folded, gone the way of previous attempts to revamp this  premises, hence it is again closed and boarded-up with wood and metal protective panels. 

Gone are the days of The World's End's Victorian 'gin palace' splendour. Almost all of the etched glass windows were replaced decades ago and I noticed that some of those small bits that remain on the west-facing side are smashed where people have clearly tried to break in to the building. The restaurant at the end of the terrace of nearby shops is also partially boarded up making this zone look grubby and unloved, yet the three charity shops here are offering second hand stuff that is ridiculously overpriced. History about this area here. 

26 January 2016

The Venus Fountain, Sloane Square

This is the final part of my walk along Kings Road

I bet most people walk past this beautifully understated piece and don't even notice it. But, please do stop and take a look, because it's lovely.
A bronze life-sized Venus, holding a vase and pouring water from a conch shell, kneels upon a bronze vase-shaped basin decorated with a whimsical relief of Charles II and Nell Gwynn along the Thames. This sits within and above an octagonal stone pool lined with blue ceramic tiles.


It was created by sculptor Gilbert Ledward R.A. (1888-1960) and was intended to be ready for Queen Elizabeth II's coronation but, sadly, there were problems over its instalment and the deadline was not met despite the date inscription*.
It is a reference to the Kings Road which was built during Charles II's reign. Just to the west of Sloane Square was the house where Nell Gwynn, his mistress, stayed on occasion. The vase depicts the lovers seated by the Thames – Charles picks fruit from a tree, whilst Nell Gwynn fans herself. An impish cupid sits nearby with two arrows ready and a deer and hound run in the background whilst a swan swims past.
The inscription around the top of the basin reads, "Sweet Thames run softly, till I end my song", from 'Prothalamion' by Edmund Spenser (1552-1599). The poem was a spousal verse written to honour a double marriage, the title meaning a song preceding the marriage ceremony.
A proposal in 2006 for Grade II listing was not approved.

*The inscription at the bottom of the basin reads: 'GLIBERT LEDWARD RA 1952', and beneath this, 'PRESENTED BY THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS THROUGH THE LEIGHTON FUND'.

4 January 2016

A walk along Kings Road (part 5) leapfrog and Peter Jones

Short and sweet is this section of the walk (see previous posts for parts 1-4)


Walking East, Allister Botwell's "Two Pupils" (2002) can be found in a pedestrian side turn off Kings Road that leads to the new Duke of York Square. The leapfrogging boy and the seated girl are a reference to the Royal Military Asylum which occupied the site 1803–1909 and was opened by the 'Grand Old' Duke of York (the same fella from the nursery rhyme).
And finally we arrive at Peter Jones. Turn into Cadogan Gardens just before the store and admire the gorgeous tiled floor in the entrance there. I suspect all the entrances once had the same or similar designs, only it seems odd for there to have only have ever been this one. The building is not a uniform shape – I love the soft curves, especially at the corner.
That'll do!

17 November 2015

A walk along Kings Road (part 3) – A convoluted statue and Wright's Dairy

This continues on from here

Has anyone ever really taken a good look at that bizarre bit of street sculpture outside French Connection on the corner of Markham Square in Kings Road? I looked for an info plaque when I was there but couldn't find anything. 
This is what I see: A woman sitting back on one foot with one knee raised, with some kind of fish-shaped thing on her lap and a strange inverted L-shaped instrument over her right shoulder. Hmmm... let's think... is she playing a cello or some kind of musical instrument? 
I am stumped.  


I tried for 40 minutes to find some information about it, searching online using words such as sculpture, street art, public, French Connection, Kings Road, bronze, woman, kneeling, Markham Square, etc., and I have come up with nothing. If I knew the artist it might help. Other people are also intrigued.
UPDATE: I asked for ideas and thanks to some feedback in the comments section below I now know it to be 'Bronze man and Eagle' by Richard Bently Claughton, commissioned by Barclays Bank and unveiled in April 1966.

Diagonally opposite is the old Wright's Dairy building with its magnificent terracotta cow's head on the angled third floor corner. Archive pics* show that the Wrights were "cow keepers and dairy farmers" and "Acknowledged to be the Finest Dairy in the District". Nothing like a bit of self promo eh; they may well have been the only dairy in the area!
Old Church Street, Google Streetview, 20th July 2015.
Note also the painted tiles with rural depictions
But I think these pics show their extensive premises further west, in what is now Old Church Street where a subsequent owner used to keep 50 cows. The same cow's head can be seen on the front of the building (see pic right) and there is another one on the front of another building that faces the end of the alley where the red car is parked.
So, back to the building at the Sloane Street end of Kings Road shown in the pics above... having just spent the a further fruitless 25 minutes on this second research mission, I am again stumped. Without access to archive business listings for the street, and/or until someone tells me otherwise, I am going to make an educated guess and say that it was a shop selling the milk and dairy products that were produced at Wright's farm a mile way to the west in [Old] Church Street.
What do you think?
All feedback welcome.

*Credt archive pics: Exciting Postcards 

18 August 2015

A walk along Kings Road (part 2) – The Chelsea Potter, RSoles and The Pheasantry/PizzaExp

This continues from my post on July 24th


An Art Nouveau-esque typeface on the optician's sign uses a cut of Arnold Böcklin by Otto Weisert harking back to the 1960s when this kind of retro look was very 'in'. Think Biba.
Next, The Chelsea Potter's ornate railings and pub sign.
On the next row, hints of the road's distant history can be glimpsed when looking at the lovely old house, home to RSoles boots and shoe shop. Note the  quirky cyclist art for sale above the ground floor. Possibly sold by the time you read this as I took these pics in March.
And then we have the splendid Grade II listed Georgian frontage of The Pheasantry, so called because in and around 1865 George Samuel was breeding pheasants, cattle and foxes at this site. Three plaques on the building show that the site was occupied by Amédée Joubert & Sons (1880-1914) who seemed to be masters of a multitude of trades including upholstery, cabinet making, wood carving and gilding. They also manufactured bedding and furniture and imported and restored tapestries and carpets. It would have been during this period that the triumphural entrance, the courtyard and architectural mouldings and details were added. AJ&S produced and sold not only full size items but miniatures for dolls' houses.
After 1914 the building became the home of a dance studio/ ballet academy, and was used as studio space by artists. In the mid 1930s the basement was turned into The Pheasantry Club and for decades was a popular haunt of artists, actors, writers and the like. It closed in 1966; the basement became a nightclub and the upper floors were converted into apartments.
It has been a branch of Pizza Express for as long as I can recall (date to be checked).
I can't find any info as to who the two people depicted in the roundel on the main gate are (shown in the pics bottom right). Possibly it's Monsieur Joubert and his wife? ... any ideas?

4 November 2014

A walk around the Cheynes

Just some pics I took in the little area of Chelsea that borders the Thames.
It's a really interesting area close to the lovely Chelsea Physic Garden. The 18th Century houses of Cheyne Walk have had many famous residents including Rossetti, George Eliot, David Lloyd George and Keith Richards and Mick Jagger to name just a few. See a fuller list here.


A stink pipe, egyptian benches, Thomas More, Hans Sloane
Closed pub, birds and a lady
Metal street sign, lots of pipes, new development, old frontage.