Yesterday afternoon I wandered down to Clerkenwell Road to watch the procession in London's "Little Italy" – an event that has been going since 1880. The route starts and ends at St Peter's church. Today they release a sprinkling of tinsel rather than live doves at the start of the procession and then a series of floats circles the area, interspersed by community/religious groups carrying banners.
I must say that the last time I went to watch this it was a far more exuberant affair, more of a celebration. I think that was 2018 but I don't seem to have written it up on here. This year, in comparison, I found it all a bit staid and quiet. A shame, as I had been expecting colourful, noisy Italians, celebrating their culture.
Some of the floats depicting religious scenes were marvellous, as shown above. However, judging from their attire, many of the people walking in the parade looked like they they'd been roped in at the last minute, and this included those representing biblical characters who also looked a bit shabby, especially in the footwear department. For instance, it was evident that Mary and Joseph had thrown their costumes on over their regular clothes which included chunky black strappy wedges and pale blue trainers, respectively. Hmmm, couldn't these important figures have found some sandals, as per the sterling efforts of some children later in the parade?!
Incidentally, I recently read that Casa Italiana, one of Little Italy's main social hubs, is under threat of closure. Read more here.
After the procession had finished, I wandered past the tempting food and drink stalls in the adjacent streets but decided not to stop. Instead I headed towards Angel and Upper Street and, as I wandered into Exmouth Market, I saw that the door to Our Most Holy Redeemer was open and so I went inside. I've many times admired it's unusually elegant exterior, but (here we go again...) I have never properly looked inside before!
As you can see, it's gorgeous. Being as everyone was else was at the festival down the hill, I was the only person in there apart from a lady who was attending to the flowers.
It is an absolute delight. I was immediately attracted to twelve Stations Of The Cross here carved in low relief within panels. The design and composition is sublime and very early C20th/Arts&Crafts. I've not seen the like before.
I asked the lady if she knew who had made them. She suggested William Morris or a contemporary of his and I said I'd find out later.* It turns out Chris, for that is her name, was a marvellous company and easy to chat to as, for the next 15 mins, we walked around the whole interior admiring the 12 panels and the other lovely artworks there. A small piece of the ceiling fell down on her as we walked. The Venetian style architecture is crumbling, evident that the building is in need of some attention.
Back out in the street, I was intrigued to notice that The Exmouth Arms bears the date 1915 – how odd to be constructing a pub in the middle of WWI.
Ghosts of old shops in Exmouth Market
Alley at the side of the church and the date stamp on The Exmouth Arms
And then up Amwell Street to the late-Georgian simplicity of St Peter and Pauls' Catholic church where the doors were also open, so, of course, I went inside. I was immediately greeted by a sign telling visitors to be silent. I appeared to be the only person in there. I sat for at least five minutes admiring the lovely stained/coloured glass windows, the sculptures and the paintings and when I stood up I noticed that two young girls were sitting quietly on the floor within the aisle. It was only the shutter sound on my phone camera that occasionally broke the silence.
On the way out I noticed these donation boxes.
I wonder which of the three garnered the most dosh?! There's also a modern touch screen app doobrey thing.
I then continued my amble up to Upper Street via Myddelton and Claremont Squares and along Pentonville Road. It was a lovely wander.
*Chris says she says Wm Morris to anyone who asks! A bit of sleuthing and I've discovered that the panels were carved by John Crawford who, it seems, whilst being was amazingly talented and prolific, was barely known of until ten years ago. Find out more here.
