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10 June 2026

A Ladbroke Grove ghostsign – a huge hidden gem that's hard to see

Within the entrance to Elgin Mews at the rear of The Elgin at 96 Ladbroke Grove which, btw, is an absolutely gorgeous example of a Victorian gin palace, there are some large letters painted on the wall.

Here's a screenshot of the Google map of the area:


Today there are residential properties along the mews, but up until the 1970s, there would have been small tradesmen here offering various services. The postal directories from 1899 through to 1910 show a range of businesses – a horse dealer, a dentist, a chimney sweep, a bath chair proprietor, a locksmith, a carman (that's a man with a van), an upholsterer, a billposter, a couple of builders and a french polisher.

In the mews entrance off Ladbroke Grove there are large letters on the left side. Here it is in eight sections. 


The sign is one long line of big white letters on a black strip. Due to the narrowness here it's not possible to get a better angle on it. At first, all I could make out was S. KER[something]. OUN....
I found it difficult to decipher because I couldn't tie up the letters I saw with any of the trades listed above. I wondered if KER was part of a company name/owner. Nope. Nothing tied up with the available info.

Then, taking shelter here one rainy day I had another good look at it, and the different lighting conditions helped me to ascertain that the full points are actually commas and it says:
TILES, KERBS, SURROUNDS
which means it's surely a sign for one of the builders, either Charles Halford or Frank Richards who were both here in 1915, the latter since at least 1910.

Other elements of the sign appear to have worn away over time – it surely would have shown the name of the company plus other products available, yet how this happened is beyond me seeing as this is very well protected from the elements.

I am also at a loss how anyone would have been able to see the sign from the road as it's only noticeable if you are approaching slowly from the South and, even then, not until you are almost at a level with it. Quick! Turn right now!

There doesn't appear to be any hints of a similar sign on the opposite wall for anyone approaching from the north/the station. There could well have been a sign at the eastern end of the mews, but long gone now. 

This sign features on my Portobello Ghostsigns walk – join me to find out more – see here 

9 June 2026

The Conversation at St Martin's-in-the-Fields – coming together to talk about the world

St Martin’s-in-the-Fields continues to host “The Conversation”, an excellent series of interviews available in-person or from the comfort of your sofa on Tuesday evenings at 7pm through to the end of July. Some talks are within the church, some are in the crypt.  


I have, so far, attended three…


I found Harriet Walter* to be amazingly engaging – she spoke about her relationship with Shakespeare’s female characters and delighted us with readings from her book She Speaks! – very clever!

Amistead Maupin’s conversation was very well-attended – a wonderful mix of facts and fiction – I love how he reveals everything and nothing all at once. Last week I watched and listened attentively as Sarah Churchwell talked about Scarlett O’Hara and American politics, and I learned a lot.  


Apologies for the out-of-focus pics – I was so engrossed that when I remembered to take pics I simply held up my arm and clicked, hence Harriet and Sarah are blurred.  

*I’ve just realised that Harriet Walter isn’t shown on the poster thingy at the top, which I copied from their website. The same thing also appears on banners outside the church. The list of names ought to show these people: Jonathan Sumption, Oliver Bullough, Ali Smith, Jackie Morris & Robert McFarlane, Janina Ramirez and Andrea Wulf.

1 June 2026

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31 May 2026

Rotten Row's Tercentenary Bollards and Gas Lamps

A one of The Royal Park's volunteer guides, I will be leading some free tours on Saturday 6th June about The Great Exhibition site in Hyde Park. This is part of the Great Exhibition Road celebrations. Tours start at 2.30pm and 4.15pm, but group size is limited – simply show up on the day and register at our stall outside Imperial College. My colleague Elizabeth will leading the walks at the same times on Sunday 7th. Find out more here

On Friday afternoon I went to Hyde Park to check out the route and then headed eastwards towards Knightsbridge along the path between The Serpentine and Rotten Row (Le Route de Roi, / The King's Road).

View across the Great Exhibition to Albert Memorial looking teeny tiny in the distance – join us for one of our regular tours and get up close to the memorial.  

The King's horsey highway is separated from the cyclists and pedestrians by a very long line of bollards interspersed with gas lamps. I went to take a closer at some writing on one of the lamp bases and saw that it had been presented by Cheryl Beth Smith and Jennifer Nicole Smith in 1990. I then noticed that the adjacent bollards had names around the top. When I'd taken the middle snap, above, I hadn't then spotted the names and can now see that it says The Wiltshire (something). Could be a regiment, could be a pub. 


The sponsors' names are arranged in groups/types. The first ones I don't recognise. See above for John Young and Nicholas James. There's also Burchipluma Ind[ustries?], Lady Alexandra (something) and Graham Axford. Thank you all, whoever you are.


Poor Anne has lost her family name so it's hard to ascertain who she was, but I am sure we all know Whitbread the brewer and Hepworth the tailor.


There then follows a series bearing names to do with horses and riding:


The Horsemans Press, The Saddle Association and The Donkey Breeders Association, Blenheim Riding School and Commanche something (forgot to check for other words). Hmm, was this a horsey brand in the 1990s? It got me thinking how marvellous it would be if a group of fearsome be-feathered braves suddenly galloped past!

I did not take a photo of every name as, even by my own standards, that would be bonkers, so on reaching the next gas lamp base (shown above) I walked through to the lake and watched two young girls take turns to make videos of each other posing and pouting and/or looking sweet and carefree whilst wearing what looked like very cheaply-made clothes. One of them was actually wearing a pair of hotel slippers. Are they making memories to show their future grandchildren?! 


Back to the bollards. I decided to look at the next section of bollards and found one with the name Adair on it but the info strip is upside down. This section is opposite the barracks and stables so it's fitting that many of the names reflect this, showing commanders, generals, military services etc. One of the police bands is becoming unattached. 
 

We then move into the world of catering and high street names, some of which no longer exist...


Allied Lyons was formed in the late 1970s when J. Lyons & Co merged with the brewery that owned Ind Coope and Tetley. And then we have Pizzaland – back in the eighties it was either them or PizzaHut who with those horrid thick crusts. I'm much prefer a thin crust and back then I would often enjoy a Pizzaland Platter at lunchtime – half a pizza with salad. 
Chicago Rib Shack is a real blast from the past. Founded in 1982, this was created by Bob Payton, the American hotelier and restaurateur. One of his other eateries used to be at No.7 Hanover Square and whenever I am walking past there I am reminded of The Chicago Pizza Pie Factory (f.1978). I tried eating there a couple of times but found it too cakey. As I've already said, I'm a thin crust girl. 
 

Utility companies, petroleum and oil comes next a well as some we-known names including a series bearing The Post Office (not shown). Marks & Spencer is well-represented – I think I counted six of theirs. There's also quite a few donated by Asda and the The Evening Standard adjacent to one bearing the name of Derek Jameson, tabloid newspaper editor and broadcaster.

At this point, near to the exit for Knightsbridge station, I decided that was enough. It was a hot day so, I went to sit on a bench in the shade for a while to finish my cryptic crossword and do some more people-watching. 

At home, I tried to find more information about this 300 year commemorative effort but, so far, I've only found just one mention which barely skims the subject and The Royal Parks page about Rotten Row doesn't help. 

I've just recalled that I talked about Rotten Row near the Rose Garden on my birthday walk through the parks with friends in August 2023. Yet there's no mention of the sponsor names on this 1990 memorial and none of us at that time noticed the letters around the bollards.  


The 1990 event was a big affair as reported in the press, but I can't properly show you that here because I let my British Newspapers Online account lapse – I can only see these headlines which show that the parade included the largest ever cavalcade of horses, a gala event and carriage rides. I can't get into the info without renewing my subscription, so if you have an account and can supply any further info please do let me know. I'm also keen to see a list of the names involved and to find out how much each bollard/lamp had cost.

I like how this gives us a window into the big cheeses of the 1980s. Next time I am wandering along Rotten Row I will keep my eye open for some bygone brands and there's every chance that I will write another post about this. 

30 May 2026

Stepney to Wapping. So much to see.

Here are some pics from a few weeks ago when I walked from Whitechapel High Street to The Prospect of Whitby pub on the Thames Path. It's an area I like a lot and every time I pass through I spot something I hadn't noticed last time. Here goes. 

Heading first to Stepney Farm, I decided rather than walk via gorgeous Stepney Green, as is often my default route, that I'd use White Horse Lane. It's a mix of old and new housing and then there's this with this strange construction at No.39a bearing the date of 1928 in very badly-rendered numbers!

Here was the Ideal Garage at street level with Goldstein Marks, mantle manufacturers (ladies' coats) upstairs. Indeed, in the 1930s, most of this street was occupied by Jewish garment manufacturers intermingled with btchers, bakers, tobacconists etc. The windows are clearly UPVC replacements and it's fair to assume that they would have originally been metal frames. I wonder what the building looked like in 1928 and what it was used for.

On the opposite side of the road I noticed a street with a beery name and pondered if I could make a collection of other street names after alcoholic beverages. Short answer: No!


I wandered through the farm, perused the farmers' market and designer-maker stalls and went to say hello to some of the animals. I then crossed the road and admired the chunky railings around the churchyard in Belgrave Street with their multiple layers of peeling paint.

Via a dogleg around the almshouses, this then becomes White Horse Road – note White Horse Road not Lane – surely this was all one name before and alluded to a White Horse pub. I will look at old maps and update this later. 

Just before Wakeling Street I spotted some Mercers Maidens high up on the social housing block that I never noticed before., even Though I was already aware of the one at the rear of The Old Ship on the same block, round the corner here – an excellent proper locals' pub btw. Strange that I hadn't previously wandered arund the whole perimeter to see if I could find any more 


A quick snap of the wonderful elaborate doorway to what is now The Half Moon Theatre, built in the 1860s as Stepney Borough Council's public health offices. Then across Commercial Road and into Cable Street for a little detour to hunt out some other Mercers Maiden markers I had spotted a while back.

At the corner of Hardinge Street sits the Old Ship public house, now converted into flats. There are some words between the windows:


It reads "Nine feet eight inches eastward is one of the boundaries of the parish of St George, Middx 1823". Nice. it refers to St George's in the East which is one of the magnificient Hawkmoor churches in this area. Around the corner on the left, near the DLR line, there's The Convent of Mercy and Coburg Dwellings, both bearing markers that show this is Mercers Company land.


A quick peek at pre-WW2 directories shows that there used to local shops all the way along the opposite side of the street. I haven't looked into whether the demolition was due to bomb damage, but it's likely considering the amount of buildings that were affected here.

Mercers Maiden mission accomplished, so I headed due south to Shadwell Basin via Glamis Rd and Wapping Wall. First into the market there which is open every Saturday and offers a good selection of handmade wares plus food and beverages of all kinds around tables at the centre. I was glad to bump into an elderly and fascinating local man I know who lives nearby. Good chats over beers and then to the Go East Vintage Flea Weekender which is occasionally within this old hydralulic pumping station. These pics are from my last visit in March and show how it's not just the items for sale that makes it worth the £3 entry fee:


I stopped for a chat with my friend Rusty who sells a wonderful range reclaimed items of all sizes, from glass ink wells to huge pub mirrors. I was particularly interested by this salt glazed vessel: 


It depicts Thomas Dartmouth as Jim Crow. I've never heard of him or the character before. Nor have I ever seen a bottle of this style before. I'll have to keep my open for others. 
And so to the Prospect of Whitby for a pint and a a bit of boat watching from the back window. 
A nice afternoon well spent.

22 May 2026

Clerkenwell observations, on the streets and within the venues at CDW 2026

The last three years I have visited Clerkenwell Design Week I've discovered new things and interacted with interesting people, as per my glowing reviews in 2023 and in 2025. But not this year, because I found it has become more of more a hospitality event with unusual seating, rather than a showcase for design with occasional canapés. 

I visited for 3-4 hours on both Wednesday and Thursday afternoons. First stop was the booth outside the Farringdon station where, in previous years, they print the badges for scanning on entry to the participating venues. This year we were encouraged to use our phones. However, I'd had problems accessing the app through the QR linky code thing they'd sent me, probably because I have an old model. BTW: App. That 'word' makes me shudder – sounds like a disease as in, keep away, I've got apps. 

The lady said that the QR code was my tickety barcode thing, though that did seem strange to me and at odds with the text that accompanied it. Ah, but yes/no, it seems she was wrong and my hunch was right, because later in the day, the on-screen doobrey wasn't recognised at the entrance to St John's church and the rude geezer there as good as berated me (er, it was fine the last eight places I visited, mate) then, in a very stroppy manner he printed off a physical ticket for me complete with a lanyard I said I didn't need, and said that next year the event would all be completely digital, all delivered in a tone that intimated I was stupid. 

Anyway, that exchange was mid-afternoon, let's get back to the beginning... my first visit was to a company on St John Street where I had previously registered to attend a talk. The staff looked confused. It seems the talk wasn't happening, or ever, or it had happened, or it scheduled for another time. They were as confused as I was. Hmm. I'd booked that about 5 weeks ago, yet I'd not had any alerts re a change to the date. Ah well. Plenty more to see...

I wandered northwards and went into a couple of other places only to find that I was completely ignored. OK, so I am a woman well over 50, and I am therefore quite used to being invisible even when I am wearing a red hat or a turquoise jacket, but surely CDW is a promotional event – shouldn't they be keen to talk to potential new clients and customers?  In two stores, I gazed intently and inquisitively at products and swatches and perused the leaflets, but the staff stood chatting amongst themselves swigging bottles of beer or sipping from plastic Prosecco flutes, guffawing at each others' anecdotes. They could well have been ignoring their best client ever. 

Back outside, I saw something that cheered me up. Something that has nothing to do with CDW – a manhole cover plate with wood paving inside it, directly outside 79 St John Street:


Blimey!  I have found other similar examples in the vicinity too (see my A-Z here) – though it's strange that I hadn't spotted this particular one before. I walked up and down the street looking for more, but no joy, so back to the world of interior design. 

At the junction with Clerkenwell Rd there is a company that designs and produces mosaics. But no one was looking at the mosaics, instead they were all eating free pizza and drinking wine or whatever. So, obv, I did the same. I noticed that nobody was actually interacting. No one made eye contact with me. The one person I said 'hello' to looked at me like I was mad. Do these people have friend? A staff member was preoccupied arranging pre-poured Prosecco into two neat rows. I wondered who pays for all this. 

Feeling I had travelled to a parallel universe, I was in the need of some decent conversation so I went to visit my friend Thomas who works at at a company making office environments. Good chats (phew!), plus a glass of red and a small plate of salad. Natch. 

Along the way I sampled raspberry ice cream and chatted about indoor plants where I was given a small spider plant. Later, people asked me where I got the free plant.  Hmm. As I suspected, it's all about the freebies. 

I then headed to St John's church where the aforementioned bolshy badge man was stationed, and headed down the stairs to the crypt. But – Ker–POW! I was dazzled by white! I am pretty sure I have never before seen it so shockingly bright down there.


Imho, the bright paintwork is unsuitable for this space. It's likely that it's been applied specifically for events like this. The paint is sloppily applied and doesn't bear close inspection – go check for yourself. I was pretty sure that it hadn't been this bright white in the past – I'd spent a lot of time down there when I was doing the Clerkenwell and Islington guiding course back in 2017, and if it has been like this last year during CDW, then I surely would have noticed. Perhaps they have boosted the lighting down there and this has exacerbated the effect..?  My old photos show that the walls were previously painted, but not this shade of florescence. Such a shame. A warmer, more natural, creamy tone would be far better – but why paint stone in the first instance? 

By 4.30pm I'd had enough. I decided to come back fresh the next day. 

On Thursday, I arrived via Barbican and, having decided I needed a purpose, a theme, I set about finding out about cork for walls and floors. But, here we go again... two more showrooms failed to notice me looking at their samples even though I was the only potential punter in the room.
So I went to see who was exhibiting within The Charterhouse where, I got chatting to a friendly exhibitor. He said it seemed quiet and he wondered if people knew they were there. Ironically, the floor there is mostly covered in cork tiles!


The pic on the left, above, is a terrazzo stairwell within a building on St John's Lane which I found to be more interesting that the products in the showrooms. I wandered around in there completely unnoticed. Again. Perhaps I should take up a life of crime/theft? 

Adjacent to St John's Gate I entered a courtyard full of with people chatting and quaffing free alcohol, plus nuts, olives and cherries (very nice, thank you). The space is bordered by companies, one of which has some gorgeous fabrics and textiles.

I happened to spot this black and white image by Alexander Girard framed up on one of the walls here. A few years back I'd bought this a greeting card for a friend's wedding.   

I am not mentioning the names of the companies here. Because I cannot recall all of them so best that I omit them all. You'd think the pocket map and guide book would help with that, but no. The format is a mess. Large versions of the same were attached to walls here and there but they are as good as useless because both listings/indexes are sorted alphabetically thereby assuming you know who you are looking for in the first instance. Aaargh! You might think, ooh what was that company I walked past half hour ago. Well, good luck, because you will need to scan the whole thing to find them again. 


It would be wise to have a list in
 numerical order. However, finding a number on the map is difficult because they are not consecutive across it, as is the norm. It's horrible. I noticed all this last year too, but glossed over it because the event was so much better. This year, because I was trying to find companies who made certain things, it highlighted the inadequacies of the information.

I headed to The House of Detention, its old prison cells used to showcase lighting companies. In previous years this has always been one of the most vibrant zones with a steady stream of people going in and out, up and down the stairs. But this year it was rather empty, probably because everyone was eating and drinking elsewhere. I tried to find something innovative and interesting to inspire me, and I tried to find people to talk to. But this is what I was met with:


Lighting should be inviting. This environment was alienating. So I removed myself and went to look at the spaces within St James's church on the green. On entering the crypt, I stopped in my tracks when I noticed a really wobbly Heal's logo with horrid letter spacing on a wooden partition, below, left:


Convinced this was a badly applied rub-down (well, it is – there's a lost serif at extreme top left as well  as the undulating baseline), I looked at their printed ephemera and discovered that this ugliness is actually Heal's standard identity! See here. The H and the E look, to me, unbalanced, almost flipped, as regards the position of the cross bar. After all, why employ an E with a base longer than it's top width that creates an awkward space against the slope of the A which is itself divorced from the L – as we used to say, you could drive a bus through there! Also, why is the apostrophe positioned so low? The choice of "typeface" is not good. There's also the issue of the letter-spacey sans serif as a secondary line underneath that looks like an afterthought. Eurgh. 
'Where Design Lives." Full point. Statement. Yeah. Seriously? Is it supposed to be ironic? Who 'designed' this guff? How much did they get paid?! 

I headed to The Sessions House but couldn't get in –  a bouncer on the door said it was closed to visitors now (4.15pm) so, having had enough of all this stuff, I went for a sit down somewhere nice, on a bench under some trees in the lovely St John's gardens, off Britton Street

In conclusion, CDW has always been a schmoozing event but this year it just got silly. It is now just a big jolly – three days of parties catered for by hospitality companies keen to promote their nibbles and slurpables. It's become all about the food and drink – the new products and design innovations for homes and offices are now incidental. In contrast, many exhibition spaces are devoid of people. My heart went out to the companies who had travelled here from other countries only to find that hardly anyone came to see them. 

On the plus side, I found another example of a wood-filled manhole cover for my ever-expanding collection.

13 May 2026

A visit to William Booth Memorial Training College, Champion Park, Denmark Hill

Earlier this year I joined a group tour of the buildings and grounds that make up the Salvation Army training college opposite Denmark Hill station. For me, this visit was well overdue as I’ve been meaning to find out what’s beyond the impressive foyer for many years now. Whenever I’ve been in the vicinity before it’s been on days when the library and museum are closed to the public.  I am particularly interested because this is a Giles Gilbert Scott design and, since 2020, I have been researching the man, visiting his buildings and hosting talks and in-person presentations about him.

Constructed 1928-32, GGS's style is evident within many of the architectural elements here, such as the tower and brickwork patterns which echo similar features at Liverpool Cathedral, Cambridge University Library and Bankside power station.

However, I think elements of this development, especially the station-facing façade, was steered by the Sally Army guys who, I've noticed, rather preferred a showy-offy kind of style to Giles's less is more approach. You need only to check out some of their small town citadels, masquerading as castles and fortresses, to see what I mean. Here at Champion Park we see OTT ecclesiastical embellishments at high level and windows that look rather disproportionate as if they were enlarged after the design was approved. Indeed, the building opened in 1929 before it was finished.  

For some reason I did not take pics of the foyer during this visit. The tour started in the library and we were taken to the upper floors via a gorgeous Hollywood Deco style staircase to the museum.  As you can see, the stairs wrap around a lovely old cage elevator/lift.


The stairs on the upper floors afforded views of the meditative walking maze/spiral within the grass at the rear, which is barely discernible from ground level. I love a maze. There's a similar one at the southern end of Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park and another within a council estate near Olympia.

I really like the stripey carpet and the berry colours echoed on the chairs.

We walked around the gated grounds, which resembles a small village, and we were shown inside some of the living quarters which, although compact, are now bigger than the tiny cell-like spaces that were part of the original design.  

It was here that I spotted at my feet a man hole cover with wood blocks within some of the segments – ooh, another one to add to the A-Z of Woodblocks 


I surmised that the college must have been built on what had previously been Victorian streets but I now see that doesn't appear to be the case, as is evident by the maps available here on Southwark Council's site. As you can see by the snippet below of Kelly & Co's map, c1888, there were no other streets between Champion Park and Champion Grove. Indeed, later folding maps I have to hand here show the same empty space into the 1940s, well after the college was built.


Hmmm... we have two options – either the man hole cover plate was imprted from somewhere else, or this area of Champion Park might have previously been part of a private business that used many horses and carts. The wood block surface would have kept the clippety-clop and carting and clanking noises to a minimum so as not to upset the well-to-do residents living in Champion Grove and the 1840's paired villas along Grove Lane. Any further info welcome. 

FYI, 'champion' has nothing to do with winners or vinegar – we should be pronouncing it with a french accent because the area is named after Sir Claude Champion de Crespigny, a Huguenot refugee who, in 1717, built Champion Lodge on his 30-acre estate here.    

29 April 2026

Delightful street art by Max Jaz Art in Holloway Road

Next time you are shopping in Holloway, look out for a series of hand-painted artworks between Boots and Lidl.

I think I first spotted them in mid-2024, yet whenever I point them out to Holloway locals, whether friends, other shoppers or people at the bus stop, it is rare that they have ever noticed them before.

I love the double trompe-l'oeil of the corner window with a view beyond. A lot of time and effort has gone into this. They are little works of art containing, I think, hidden messages or stories. 

I wonder if the figure with a light in their hand is supposed to be anyone in particular:


Bizarrely, the chevron tape seems to enhance this artwork. Max Jaz is clearly a cat lover as a feline friend is shown on almost every panel. 


The panel closest to Lidl shows two people sitting at a table. It's the only piece that is signed, on the blue jumper, on the trainers and as a squared-up underneath:


If you look closely, you can see it's romantic – there are flowers on the table and fireworks in the sky. The blond moustachioed male on the left is secreting a ring underneath the table, probably about to propose marriage to the redhead in yellow. One of these people is surely the artist.


I can't quite deduce the name on her necklace though – something like Smartina – my photo here is a bit blurred – whoops! I think we can deduce that the couple shown embracing in the first pair of pics (with a cat at their feet and an angel playing a guitar above their heads) are the same two people. 

The style is ver much like murals I have seen. Which makes me wonder, at what size does a painting on a wall become a mural? Or does a mural have to tell a story or multiple stories? 

Any further info about the artist and the stories behind these works is most welcome.